Just east of Verona, near the little town of Soave, some of Italy’s most interesting white wines are being made. Vivid, fresh, flavorful, and capable of aging in the bottle. There are very few producers at this peak of quality, but Graziano Prà is one of them. He makes a range of Soaves, all different and distinctive, grown in volcanic soils and farmed at low yields. The commercial reputation of Soave used to be mediocre, but even this base wine from Prà explodes that idea completely. Named after Graziano’s dog, Otto, this is a bright, dangerously delicious, mid-weight white wine, with aromas and flavors of green apple, flowers, almond, and citrus. I love this as an aperitif but it is also perfect with all sorts of seafood, roast chicken, and many pasta dishes.